Training an Indication
Using a Lid and Mozzie Traps
and progressing to Containers
I am happy to share these videos of me training Toby. They are real life and my timing is not always perfect, however our dogs are very forgiving and learn in spite of us. These are the steps I have followed and they have worked for me.
Following are the videos of Toby learning an indication on a LID and other small objects for tracking. I also trained a HAND TOUCH and then introduced the MOZZIE TRAP (available from Bunnings). In the process of doing this I realised that these skills have combined into a decent nose freeze for scent work. No odour was involved in the first stage. I introduced odour to the Trap when I was ready to play the 'SHELL GAME' (selecting game).
Following are the videos of Toby learning an indication on a LID and other small objects for tracking. I also trained a HAND TOUCH and then introduced the MOZZIE TRAP (available from Bunnings). In the process of doing this I realised that these skills have combined into a decent nose freeze for scent work. No odour was involved in the first stage. I introduced odour to the Trap when I was ready to play the 'SHELL GAME' (selecting game).
HAND TOUCH AND TRANSFER TO THE TRAP
There is plenty of information available about how to get started teaching a hand touch and most classes these days include it in their curriculum.
This is similar to the hand touch but using a Trap
INTRODUCING ODOUR
using the 'Trap'.
using the 'Trap'.
Odour is placed in the Trap and it is placed on the ground or you can hold it in your hand. Several sessions are conducted rewarding for 'nose on source'. The number of Traps is increased over several sessions. Do not rush this process. I throw the food because it prevents the dog from taking their nose off source to watch for my hand coming in to reward. This still happens from time to time but not as often as I believe it would if you were rewarding at source.
THE LID TRAINING
I learnt the LID indication method for tracking from Talia Duell in Victoria. She runs regular online classes teaching this method https://discovercanine.com.au/
CONTAINERS
A pre-requisite of teaching the boxes is that the dog can do the 'Shell Game' demonstrated in the video above under 'Introducing Odour' and choose between a number of Traps. When that is solid, progress to teaching the containers.
Do not reward IN the box as this will encourage the dog to push the box which is what we are trying to avoid. We will only reward for nose in the box/trap. Do not allow the dog to paw. If this happens pick the box up.
I like to throw food at this stage as it takes me out of the picture and he does not lift his head looking for me to come in to reward but if you prefer, you can reward in your hand at the SIDE of the box, but not OVER the box. If you reward over the box in a trial you may accidentally drop food and contaminate the box. Judge not happy!
Each step may take a number of sessions. Do not progress to the next step until you are getting a duration nose hold (to the standard you have set). If the dog is confused or not holding at the next level go back to the previous step.
The holes in the boxes progress from appx. 12cm (big enough so the dog can get their nose fully in the box), then appx. 8cm and then 4cm. Put plenty of perforated holes in the box.
Do not reward IN the box as this will encourage the dog to push the box which is what we are trying to avoid. We will only reward for nose in the box/trap. Do not allow the dog to paw. If this happens pick the box up.
I like to throw food at this stage as it takes me out of the picture and he does not lift his head looking for me to come in to reward but if you prefer, you can reward in your hand at the SIDE of the box, but not OVER the box. If you reward over the box in a trial you may accidentally drop food and contaminate the box. Judge not happy!
Each step may take a number of sessions. Do not progress to the next step until you are getting a duration nose hold (to the standard you have set). If the dog is confused or not holding at the next level go back to the previous step.
The holes in the boxes progress from appx. 12cm (big enough so the dog can get their nose fully in the box), then appx. 8cm and then 4cm. Put plenty of perforated holes in the box.
STEP 1 - Tape the Trap to the bottom of the boxes using double-sided tape so that it doesn't move around inside the box. I put out a few extra Traps for context.
STEP 2 - Tape the Trap to the bottom of a box with a LARGE hole (at least 12cm) so that the trap is visible and easily accessed by the dog. I kept the extra Traps, once again for context and to encourage Toby to make the choice.
STEP 3 - I have added an extra box and still kept the Traps for context.
STEP 4 - If you are getting the indication you want on the boxes with the big holes, progress to boxes with a smaller hole (appx. 8cm). This should still give the dog access to plenty of odour. Continue to tape the Trap to the bottom of the box. Over a couple of sessions, I added more boxes and kept a box with the big hole (not the one that had odour in it) and also the Traps.
STEP 5 - I don't have video of this session but I introduced the box with the 4cm hole in the same way I did for Step 4. Only progress when you're getting the result you want.
STEP 5 - I don't have video of this session but I introduced the box with the 4cm hole in the same way I did for Step 4. Only progress when you're getting the result you want.
STEP 6 - Although it can't be seen by the dog, I still taped the Trap to the bottom of the box to keep the odour picture consistent i.e the smell of the Trap, the tape and the odour.
STEP 7 - Finally, a closed box! Let the box sit for at least 20 mins so that there is plenty of odour coming out the seams. I have consistently used 3 cotton tips in the Trap since the beginning. You will see in the video below that Toby decides that having his nose 'near' the corner of the box is good enough. It's not. I wait for him to put his nose on the seam and then I reward.
